The Bagrielle Snuggy

Thank you so much for your interest in my work. The Bagrielle Snuggy was named after my middle sister, I promise it is filled with love and calmness. You can also follow this pattern through the video tutorial by clicking here for the first part, and here for the second part Please, note that this pattern is for personal use only. You may sell the finished product, but this pattern, or any parts of it, are not to be shared, translated, sold, published, reproduced as any form of tutorial (including video), or claimed as your own. Use the hashtag #Bagriellesnuggy to share your progress with me on instagram!

Merci beaucoup,

Alex la Terreur

ABBREVIATIONS

This pattern uses US terms.

Ch: Chain
Sts: Stitch
Slst: Slip stitch
Blo: Back loop only
Sc: Single crochet
Mo: Moss Inc: Increase (put 2mo into the same space)
Dec: Decrease (mo 2 stitches together)
Fsc: Foundation single crochet
WS/RS: Wrong side/Right side

MATERIAL

Size 6 yarn, I suggest bernat blanket or parfait chunky!

7.00 mm hook for ribbing ;
8.00 mm hook for the body ;
Sewing needle ;
Stitch markers.

YARDAGE

I added an extra 100m. If you plan on making the snuggy longer, I highly suggest getting a little more to be sure!

XSmall-Small: 1100m
Medium-Large: 1200m
Xlarge-2XLarge: 1400m
3XLarge- 4XLarge: 1500m
5XLarge: 1600m

GAUGE

The gauge is a quick swatch to make sure that you have the same tension as me with the hook and yarn you're using. If it's off, the measurement won't be the same as the pattern suggest (this means it's useless to test it! So the gauge for this pattern is 5mo (sc, ch1 and skip the next stitch working in the ch1 space from the row below) per 7 rows. You should get a 10x10cm square. I understand that the foundation double crochet (fsc) might be hard if you have never done it before.Make sure that you check your tension often!

R1: Fsc10, do 5mo across.
Ch1 (This ch is called the turning chain) and turn.
***Alternative for fdc: Ch11. Start in 2nd ch from hook and do 10 sc. Ch1 and turn.
R2: Skip the first sts. Do 5mo. Ch1 and turn. The last mo should be in the turning ch.
R3-7: repeat row 2. Ch1 and turn at every row.

SIZING

The following measurements might differ depending on your tension. I used to never check my gauge (whoopsie), but if you haven't done it, DO IT. Otherwise, these measurements are completely useless for you. Either way, consider that the size might be +/- 5cm. The snuggy is meant to be really loose with baggier sleeves. It is extremely important that you try the snuggy as you are making it, often. Especially when you get around the arm holes. You can easily adjust if it's too big or too tight. There's no measurements for the length as it is up to you (mine was 65cm long for reference). If you have any troubles or are confused for some reason, send me a dm on instagram or go to lesterribles.ca and send an owl my way (or an email, if you're old fashion).

	XS-S	M-L	XL-2XL	3XL-4XL	5XL
Bust size (circumference)	90cm	112cm	132cm	152cm	172cm
Arm hole	42cm	44cm	46cm	48cm	50cm
Sleeve	42cm	42cm	44cm	44cm	46cm

DISCLAIMER

The body is made by working two (2) panels that we are going to join later on. There's no bottom ribbing so tension is key here. Measure the length AND width of the panels (often) to make sure that you're not crocheting tighter/looser as you go. Do not hesitate to check your gauge by measuring a 10x10cm square as you are making the snuggy. The moss stitch is not the tightest of all, but changing your tension will have a considerable impact on the finish look!

THE BODY BABY

The great thing with this pattern is that you can customize it. You like a mid-length? An underboob? A please-hide-my-butt snuggy? Just keep going with the rows love! Please consider that the longer you go, the more yarn you need. Anyhoo, there's no ribbing, so let's get started. With the bigger hook (8mm):

Back and front panel on top of each other

Back panel first

R1: Ch 46 (56, 66, 76, 86). Ch 1 & turn.
R2: 23mo (28, 33, 38, 43). Ch 1 & turn. Repeat row 2 until you are satisfied with the length. I did 50 rows.

Next, the front panel:

The front panel is the same than the back, but you need to stop 10 rows before the end. For example, if you did 50 rows for the back panel, you should stop at the 40th row (we need to make a panel split). With the bigger hook (8mm):
R1: Ch 46 (56, 66, 76, 86). Ch 1 & turn.
R2: 23mo (28, 33, 38, 43). Ch 1 & turn. Repeat row 2 until you have 10 rows left to make. Don't fasten off.

PANEL SPLIT

There's basically no shoulder extensions for this pattern, but it requires a little adjustment on the front panel.

Right panel split

R1: With the 8mm hook and the right side facing out, keep going with the moss stitch for half of the panel. You should do 12mo (14, 17, 19, 22).

picture showing where to insert your hook for the second split panel

Repeat row 1 another 9 times for a total of 10 rows. Fasten off.

Left panel split

R1: With the right side facing out, attach the yarn into the middle of the panel with a slst. Sc into the same space. Ch1. This counts as the first mo. Do another 11mo (13, 16, 18, 21) for a total of 12mo (14, 17, 19, 22). Ch1 and turn.
R2: 12mo (14, 17, 19, 22). Ch1 and turn.

Repeat row 2 another 8 times for a total of 10 rows. Fasten off.

ATTACHING THE SHOULDERS

With the wrong side facing out, and the 8mm hook, sc into both the ch1 space and the sc for 6mo (7, 9, 10, 11). You should have 12sc (14, 18, 20, 22) on both sides.

SLEEVES

The sleeves are worked in round because if there's something more annoying than ribbing, it's sewing lol. Lay your work flat with the right side facing out. Put a sts marker into the sc were the panels were joined. From there to your right, count 22 rows (28, 32, 38, 42). Put a sts marker. Do the same thing on the other side (you should have 3 sts marker, one in the middle and one on each side). With your bigger hook (8mm), insert your hook in the first sts marker to your right. Remove the sts marker.

picture showing where the stitch marker should be on the sleeves

R1: Do 1mo were the sts marker was, and put the sts marker into the new mo. Keep going for another 10mo (13, 15, 18, 20). Remove the sts marker in the middle and put a mo (discard the sts marker). Keep going with another 10mo (13, 15, 18, 20). Remove the last sts marker and put a mo (discard the sts marker). Slst into the first mo (remove the sts marker and discard it) to attach panels together. Ch1 and turn.

R2 to 24: 23 mo around (29, 33, 39, 43). Ch1 and turn.

***Feel free to make the sleeves longer or shorter by adding or subtracting rows.

R25: Dec, 19 (25, 29, 35, 39), dec.

You should have 21 mo (27, 31, 37, 41). Ch1 and turn.

R26: Dec, 17 (23, 27, 33, 37), dec.

You should have 19 mo (25, 29, 35, 39). Ch1 and turn.

R27: Dec, 15 (21, 25, 31, 35), dec.

You should have 17 mo (23, 27, 33, 37). Ch1 and turn.

R28: Dec, 13 (19, 23, 29, 33), dec.

You should have 15 mo (21, 25, 31, 35). The next row will prepare the wrist for the cuff. Ch1 and turn.

R29: Alternate between sc and dec by working into the sc and ch1. Fasten off.

MAKING THE CUFFS

Using the smaller hook (7mm) and the right side facing out:

Step1: Attach the yarn to the wrist with a slst. Ch6 and start in 2nd ch.

Step2: Sc in the BLO of next 5 sts for a total of 5 sts.

Step3: Instead of joining where you started step 1, slst the next 2 sts together (decrease). Finally, do a slst. Turn.

Step4: Do NOT ch 1. Skip the dec and the slst you just did. Sc in BLO of the next 5 sts. Ch1 and turn.

Repeat step 2 to 4 until you went around the whole wrist. Close the ribbing with the method you prefer.

JOIN THE PANELS

Use the 7mm hook to join the panels by sc them together.

If you want a better looking bottom edge, you can. Lay your work flat with the right side facing out, the neck facing down and the back of the pullover on top. Use the bigger hook (8mm) and attach the yarn with a sc in the middle of the back. Sc around and close with an invisible finish.

HOOD

So the hood might be a little unnecessary. If you don't want one, you can just sc around once or twice and add a couple of boutons to look cute! If you want more inspirations, I suggest going to one of my tester's instagram, @kadcrochets, that's what she did! It looks absolutely amazing and just as comfy. Okay so the hood is a messy spot. I frogged this thing 100 times before remembering what I did lol. Follow the instructions and pictures closely or you might get lost. With the right side of the snuggy facing out, have the neck facing up and the bottom facing down (basically lay it down lol). Using the bigger hook (8mm), row 1 is made in two steps:

R1 step1: Attach the yarn in the center (see #1) with a sc. Ch1 and sc into the next ch1 space (see #2). This forms the first mo. Do 5 (6, 8, 9, 10) more mo for a total of 6mo (7, 9, 10, 11).

R1 step 2: Mo were the panels were joined (see #3). Next, alternate between mo and inc until you reach the other side (see #4). Finish by doing 6mo (7, 9, 10, 11). You should have a total of 28mo (35, 40, 47, 53). Ch1 and turn.

Row 2 to 20: Mo around. Ch1 and turn.

****You can add extra rows if you want a longer hood. Try the hood here.

R21: 12mo (15, 18, 21, 24), 2dec, 12mo (16, 18, 22, 25). (26, 33, 38, 45, 51). Ch1 and turn.

R22: Mo around. (26, 33, 38, 45, 51). Ch1 and turn.

R23: 10mo (12, 16, 19, 22), 3dec, 10mo (14, 16, 20, 23). (23, 29, 35, 42, 49). Ch1 and turn.

R24: 6mo (10, 13, 16, 20) (dec, 1mo) x3, dec, 6mo (10, 13, 17, 20). (19, 25, 31, 38, 45). Ch1 and turn.

R25-27: Mo around. (19, 25, 31, 38, 45). Ch1 and turn.

With the wrong side facing out, fold the hood in half. Join with a slst or with a sewing needle. Depending on the yarn you are using, slst might be too bulky so don't hesitate to switch to the needle.To make the hood cute, use the smaller hook to do a row of sc around the edge with the colour of your choice. I used the same colour for my wrist ribbing. Start in the center (see #1).

POCKET

The testers and I all agreed that a pocket would make this thing a LOT better. With the bigger hook (8mm):

R1: Do a fdc of 26 (36, 46, 56, 66). Ch1 and turn.

R2 to 6: 13 mo (18, 23, 28, 33). Ch1 and turn.

***If you did a longer body, make sure you increase the number of rows here.

R7: Dec, 9mo (14, 19, 24, 29), dec. Ch1 and turn (11, 16, 21, 26, 31).

R8: 11mo (16, 21, 26, 31). Ch1 and turn (11, 16, 21, 26, 31).

R9: Dec, 7mo (12, 17, 22, 27), dec. Ch1 and turn (9, 14, 19, 24, 29).

R10: 9mo (14, 19, 24, 29). Ch1 and turn.

R11: 9mo (14, 19, 24, 29). Ch1 and turn.

Finishing round: You should now have the right side facing out. Sc across the top and the first side. When you get to the fdc, dec acrosss. You should have 13dec (18, 23, 28, 33). Sc across the other side and join with a slst or an invisible finish.

Use stitch markers to hold the pocket onto the front of the snuggy. Sew the top and bottom of the pocket where you feel comfortable. I sewed the bottom of my pocket on the 7th row from the bottom.